Newbie Finally Installs 10.14.5 - What I Learnt & Why a New Guide Would Be Beneficial (NOW SEEKING ADVICE ON WIFI / BLUETOOTH / AIRDROP FROM COMMUNITY MEMBERS)

For allowing my new found success to happen (finally!) many thanks to …

Don (first and foremost): for an awesome project - no offence intended with the title of this thread Sir but it might be time for an updated vid and to consolidate some of the forum posts (which in a sense I’m trying to do here) to make it easier on complete newbies to Mac like myself and considering the issues faced after 10.14.3 (and every other update which will happen via a Hackintosh it seems for that matter) - I will highlight in bold + italic below what made for mass confusion in my mind anyway in relation to your guide … so that being said and if you happen to come across this thread I truly appreciate your efforts - cheers mate.

Don’s Original Video Link - hereafter referred to as “the video” or “video”:

Honourable mentions …

Olo for some very beneficial textual instructions and SRG for screenshots (which indeed provided some clarity) via:

Upgrading from 10.14 to current makes boot problem

Psinka for stating “For current 10.14.5 you need to use actual Clover version 4961” proving invaluable advice via:

Mojave failed install lattepanda

And finally a mention to YouTube channel morgonaut and her excellent video entitled "How to Update HACKINTOSH CLOVER Bootloader and macOS Mojave via:

Pre Instructional Notes:

First of all … this is focused on carrying out the whole operation via the LattePanda Alpha 864 with the m3-7y30 using a VMWare image to get the USB side of things done. This is for those without ready access to a MAC.

I am not doing the Triple boot with Windows/Ubuntu/macOS as I already have two machines running dedicated Linux and a ton of Virtual Machines in VMWare Workstation Pro so I get my dose of Penguin there - Windows and macOS for the time being.

My LP came with Win 10 Education Activated on the 64GB emmc and I have obviously kept that right where it is (BTW it was advertised as Pro so WHAT THE HEY LP and DFRobot - Pro …Education … same horse really anyways so whatever…).

I will also mention that I have clean installed Win 10 1903 on the LattePanda using the Windows Media Creation Tool to create my USB in that case, and a word of warning, upon completing the installation I found that Windows had not activated - that said, I would suggest that like myself upon getting my LP, that you extract your Windows Serial Key on the embedded BIOS and store it in Dashlane/LastPass/VeraCrypt/your sock draw or some safe place by issuing the following command in an Elevated Command Prompt (I.e., Run As Administrator) and she activates when this is entered - BEAUTY :+1: :

wmic path SoftwareLicensingService get OA3xOriginalProductKey

I can’t say if this tutorial will work in the newer LP 864s model with certainty as I’m not about to be spending another roughly $550 AUD with our crappy conversion rates to find out … besides that I also got one from the batch where the default LP branded PSU doesn’t work to power via USB-C and hence had to rig up a 12V to the DC pinout solution which cost another fifty bucks so I think I’ve spent enough at this point.

Note: to rig up your own 12V Power Supply solution see here (Credit to: Marco Bernal):

Regardless of your circumstances and if you want to give this a go , as Don mentions in the video, install Windows on a partition of the drive you are going to use first up should you have landed yourself the model without Win 10 … or leave Windows on the emmc as it stands.

So here is how I went about my install for anyone who it may be beneficial to … and of course, I understand that I am stating the obvious to some and regurgitating things that have been said both in Don’s video (pink screen and all - now fixed - thumbs up) and in posts by Members of this Forum but hopefully it helps someone else as I have been helped by the Members I have mentioned above … and after all that is what Community Forums are about … so on with the show.

MAKE SURE THAT YOU READ THIS A COUPLE OF TIMES FROM HERE ON UNTIL THE VERY END TO FAMILIARISE YOURSELF - PLEASE DO THE VM BACKUP AS SUGGESTED AT IMPORTANT NOTE!!! AND TAKE A LOOK AT THE GUIDE TO USING DISKPART SHOULD YOU NEED IT WHICH CAN BE FOUND IN THE EDIT AT THE VERY BOTTOM OF THIS THREAD - THESE TWO POINTS MAY SAVE YOU A BIT OF TIME IN THE LONG RUN (hhh hmmm - as opposed to the time it takes you to read this MEGA post)

Instructions:

  • Google search term: “How to install macOS Mohave Final on VMWare on Windows PC” and select the first search result by techsviewer

  • Your LattePanda Alpha comes with Intel VT (virtualisation capability) Enabled by default - leave it Enabled until going through the BIOS settings guide in Don’s original video and if you have changed it to disabled go to BIOS and Enable it again

  • Download and Install VMWare Player (which is free) - NOTE: As I had Windows on the emmc and a 500GB Samsung 850 EVO on the M Key (which I would later use for my macOS installation), I installed VMWare Player to the NTFS formatted EVO and also stored the VM and the .vmdk disk image required to create the VM there (the EVO later to be wiped clean again with a preliminary NTFS format ready for macOS Erase and format)

  • Download a macOS preconfigured .vmdk image from the techsviewer page (I went with the Mojave Image (One Full): Download Link (links to Google Drive) under macOS Mojave Final; 18A391 heading) - then follow the techsviewer guide to configure the VM - NOTE: I cannot vouch for the cleanliness of this file as it is far to big to run through VirusTotal or the like, however, I have had no issues since using this .vmdk file with Defender, Trend Micro Housecall, ESET Online Scanner as well as Process Explorer showing no signs of shenanigans … take it or leave it but it’s on you - and sorry … I will not provide a direct link as this is obviously for learning purposes only :slight_smile:

NOTE: Now we work within the VM for a bit

  • After you have your macOS VM up and running, download the macOS update but don’t install it … instead, right click and quit the installer from the Dock … your macOS Installer file should now be located in the Applications directory - leave it in this location and right click Get Info to see which version Installer actually DL’ed … probably you’ll have 14.5.03 which would be the third minor revision of macOS Mojave 10.14.5)

NOTE: From here on we are sort of cross referencing different sources of info

  • Run the Terminal command as mentioned in Don’s video to get the Mojave installer onto the inserted USB drive

NOTE: the following are basically Steps 3 through 7 in the post by Olo (Refer to: Honourable mentions section above) with slight variation

  • Replace Clover version r4910 as suggested in that thread link with r4961 by simply copying the Clover Configurator from Don’s 2.2.1 Clover zip to the Desktop of the VM and running that and updating Clover from there (I.e., In Clover Configurator click Install/Update Clover and you should get Clover r4961 download from within CC after which Clover r4961 will auto open

  • Be sure to select the USB as the Clover install location as per Don’s video and select all the options in the r4961 Clover installer (which auto opened) as you noted at Step 4 of Olo’s post in the linked thread (Refer to: Honourable mentions section above). These will install to the same location through using Clover so you don’t need to worry and they can all be checked for installation in Clover under the 1) UEFI Drivers AND 2) FileVault 2 UEFI Drivers subdirectories (also ensure when checking boxes in Clover r4961 that you check “Clover for UEFI booting only” which auto checks “Install Clover in the ESP” which should also remain checked and also as suggested in Don’s video … finalise the installation of Clover and the EFI should now be mounted on the Desktop.

HINT: Throughout the above step you should already have had Don’s 2.2.1 Clover on the Desktop of the MAC Virtual Machine … copy the drivers64UEFI folder out onto the VM Desktop and delete each file as you check it off in Clover installer - saved me some backward and forward confusion

  • Place the other files contained within Don’s 2.2.1 Clover (I.e., CLOVER/kexts/Other … all of these … AND config.plist (it is OK to overwrite the existing config.plist file which Clover has already created in previous steps) into the mounted EFI at their corresponding locations as suggested in Step 7 of the linked thread via the post by Olo

  • Eject All as mentioned in Don’s original video and get into setting up the BIOS settings

NOTE: I personally left iDisplay Audio Connect Enabled which I do not really understand the ramifications of but I have HDMI Audio working anyways so … just mentioning is all as the setting shows as Disabled in Don’s video.

IMPORTANT NOTE!!! Do not proceed to boot the macOS USB until you have copied the entire containing folder and contents of the macOS VM to an external drive. You can then uninstall VMWare Player which will require a Restart back into Windows at which stage you can delete any remnants by formatting the M.2 or partition you are going to be using for the primary macOS installation. In the case of things going a bit pear shaped and having to try the macOS USB creation again, you can simply reinstall VMWare Player, put the containing folder and the entire content of the VM back on the drive/partition, run VMWare Player and select File, Open, point to the .vmx (VM Configuration file), play the VM again and have all that you had before still in the VM (E.g., the downloaded macOS installer still residing in Applications, the Clover Configurator still sitting on the Desktop of the VM etc etc…

And yet ANOTHER NOTE:

After this a couple of differences in the way I got this installed as to what is seen in the video occurred and that is to say that after selecting the Sandisk USB to “Boot macOS from Install macOS Mojave” I …

  1. Get to the Disk Utility and follow Don’s Instructions until closing out of Disk Utility

  2. Select Install macOS and run through the procedure of selecting MacPanda … Don says “Give it about a couple of minutes it’s gonna install and then it’s gonna reboot and then it’s gonna take another twenty minutes etc … straight to Desktop”

It is at this point that it DOES take a COUPLE of minutes and reboots BUT IN MY CASE it reboots back to Windows instead of automagically going to the part where it is meant to take roughly 20 minutes after which IT SHOULD boot to the Desktop as Don states

Instead, I had to do a Restart directly from the Windows Login screen, mash F7 to get the Boot selection menu back up and choose the USB again … and at this point … the MacPanda disk is displayed WITHOUT having gone through the second boot “20 minutes” (I.e., I selected Boot macOS from MacPanda here now) … THEN it goes through roughly it’s 20 minutes of installation time.

NOTE: The above occurs regardless of the USB installer’s given priority within the BIOS (I.e., 1st, 2nd or 3rd).

After that it’s back to usual …

  • dd the EFI from the USB to the M.2’s/partition’s EFI partition

  • Reboot, quickly remove the USB and mash ESC to enter BIOS

  • Change boot priority to have the M.2/partition containing the macOS + Clover as 1st boot priority

  • And hey presto … Bob’s your second Aunties Nieces Brother in Law - EASY!

This has been a somewhat trying experience for me and I guess I better get used to it considering that this is just the Hackintosh … hhh hmmmm … sorry … MacPanda way and what with the problems after 10.14.3 … but I learnt some anyways and hope this might assist someone else as previously mentioned.

Final Notes …

This was tested as of the day of writing this EPIC comment so have fun to anyone who may come across it.

Last of all, my apologies for length here but I wanted to be as clear/detailed as possible and hopefully I have done so - EPIC OVER (until next update) - I am now posting this via my macOS 10.14.5 MacPanda! HOORAY :sunglasses:

Edit: in addition to the IMPORTANT NOTE!!! found above, if you managed a partial install of macOS to the drive but it does not work then you will need to reformat the drive using the Windows DISKPART utility in the case when an EFI partition may have been created - the partition created that is not EFI can simply be formatted to Unallicated space using Disk Management, however, Windows is not capable of formatting EFI partitions using the Disk Management utility alone I.e., the vast majority of options to format the EFI will be greyed out and therefore the following guide has been included for those that are unfamiliar with using DISKPART and hence allowing for you to reinstall VMware Player and the previously created VM back to that location to try creating the USB again:

https://www.easeus.com/partition-master/format-hard-drive-using-command-prompt.html

I kinda wish we had this written in a Wiki format of some type Don. A video is great, but it is a static document - and at least the Novaspirit community can help keep it up to date as new releases or comments come up. I know I destroyed my initial image trying to install an OS update, so I am sure there are topics out there that need to be documented for idiots like myself. Having to refer to multiple videos while trying to complete a project is great the first time, but if you need to update the device over and over again, a consolidated document is better IMHO.

1 Like

GDD - one comment, why are you using VMplayer? Is this due to not having a separate Mac to prepare the image?

Correct Sir - no access to a physical MAC.

tonymacx86 forums seems to scoff at the idea of using a VM to create a bootable Hackintosh installer however it seems that I have had no issues - so far at least - but then again I am yet to try to use an Apple account in an attempt to use Messages, FaceTime etc so I guess time will tell … hopefully the SMBIOS is cool the way that I have done this as from my research, that is what seems to be key in not having your account blocked … more research required because I really have no idea about 99.9% of the functionality of Clover Configurator.

Hint hint Don! I have seen you mention elsewhere since my short dalliance at your forum that you are after other ideas for videos :slight_smile:

Long story short jimmod (as that other book above took me all night to compose and it is now 6.20AM here on the East Coast of Kangaroo central), I could have done this in VMWare Workstation Pro on my main puter (Alienware 17R2) but I wanted to achieve a followable full tutorial using the LattePanda only along with the macOS VM due to zero close proximity access to a MAC … at first I had created a USB on a friends MAC but this was at around Mothers Day here in Aus and therefore I calculated that I had created the USB with Mojave 10.14.4 and using the entire 2.2.1 zip which fails … 600KM trip to the friends MAC so not in a real hurry to make the trip again!

GDD

Some thought updates and comments on usability

One of my major concerns with this whole MacPanda/Hackintosh deal was the security aspect.

This includes:

  1. My trust aspect of the installation itself using fiddled kexts as evidenced by the green dot appearing at the top left corner (from memory) of some of the files found in Don’s 2.2.1 zip and a quick Google what that meant.

I believe the green dot (and apparently they can also be different colours such as red or blue as well) means that the person who has done the hard work of fiddling them has simply marked them so that they can be identified as fiddled kexts more easily and I guess without them being fiddled we would not be in business of having a working install so …

My main point here is: What could the developer of the fiddled kext/s possibly have included in the code and are the person/s they are checked by (if any) of reputable character? I believe that they are all open source (?) which implies a slight level of trust but how and by whom are they monitored for non inclusion of malicious code? Backdoor anyone?

So without trying to be an enemy of fun, no offence to any of these hard working people but it is simply the nature of the beast these days that an element of society is out there trying to rip us all off every second of every day of our digital lives and we have to be very careful.

I guess in the end on that point it is my choice to have gone this route and i just have to bite the bullet and go for it with a somewhat sceptical level of trust - but that’s just me in a nutshell in relation to many parts of how I live my life - you gotta trust people sometimes I guess.

  1. The possibility of Apple somehow locking my Apple account when one starts to connect to their services using their for real account instead of a freshly created one for their Hackintosh

I can say that I am now slightly more satisfied/relieved after having taken a bit of a leap of faith I guess you’d call it on this one as well … from my perspective anyway.

Have now used my real Apple account (without any longer having any other Apple product after gifting my old iPhone 6s Plus to me Dear old Ma and going the Android route) and done the following with these results (and yes - I know Don has mentioned somewhere in another thread doing the rounds on this forum here somewhere that these things would work but I had to see it with my own two peepers):

  • First up fixed the Windows/Mac time battle in Windows using the RealTimeIsUniversal registry entry creation

  • Logged into my Apple ID through Apple ID login - from here I could see that my Payment Information (CC details) needed updating as I have not used the account in that long - I could enter these details but when trying to Save the sh**ty Apple web page rejects my Australian mobile phone number no matter in which format i enter it i.e., with +61 and a leading 0, with 61 and a leading 0, with +61 and NO leading 0, with 61 and NO leading 0 … I thoughts to meself … self … this is very frustrating … so meself logged out and remembered that this was always a problem when I had the iPhone as well … therefore I had a bit of a Google and then remembered that to update this information in the past I had to do it through iTunes and bingo - I’m updated with CC details and using the same phone number with sidenote that Apple is sending 6 digit two factor authentication codes via text to the same phone number on my Adroid

  • Logged into Messages using Apple ID and Password -> sent 6 digit 2FA pin via text from Apple -> entered and now logged in -> sending Messages between the Mac and the Mrs. iPhone and vice versa - NICE!

  • Logged into FaceTime using Apple ID and Password -> sent 2FA pin via text from Apple -> entered and now logged in … i currently have no USB connectable Webcam compatible with macOS but I am assuming that if I had one then I could use FaceTime … then again I only ever used FaceTime a couple of times when I had the 6s Plus and I don’t know whether I can use it solely via the MAC(Panda) anyway because the Mrs. did a call through her iPhone using FaceTime and it went to my Android phone … I think my understanding of how FaceTime can work needs a further educational brush up

  • Logged into iTunes again and “purchased” the free LastPass application - I received an email (via my phones email app with primary email connected) verification of my “purchase” from Apple in relation to getting LastPass “from the Mac App Store on a computer or device that has not previously been used” … so all good there it seems - ty for the verification Apple

  • Noted two other emails from Apple (which had made it into my Spam folder assuming due to images contained within the message body) about my attempt to change the CC details on first attempt via the sh**ty web page and also the successful account changes made via iTunes … two grand thumbs up here as well it seems

  • Checked my CC balances/transactions via online login and thus far my account has not been used to buy 300 packets of fiddlesticks ready for resale on the Deep/Dark/Dank web … time will be the factor here but I will be keeping a close eye on all CC activity for the meantime just in case

  • Had a crack at getting a TP-LINK WN-722N v2.0 happening via an EU driver but no go there as I was expecting … worth a try for sh**ts and giggles

A couple of questions if anyone can offer advice:

  1. Can I actually use a USB connected WiFi dongle? If the answer is yes then what are you using including version please? (think i may have seen somewhere that we must use an Apple WiFi card but am I mistaken?)

  2. Assuming that a USB connected Webcam will work - what are you using including model number? A reasonably priced option with good quality would be great obviously and remember I will be paying in AUD so $1 AUD = about $454 US :laughing:

That’s about it for the moment and in the interim (possibly between now and the time any updates come through) I am happily investigating my first ever extended length of time experience with macOS - happy days.

BTW - I did have a bit of a look at Catalina through a VM and it looks OK but I’m sticking with 10.14.5 as installed for now while the going is good

Some advice/input here would still be truly appreciated - PLEASE!

Updates

I managed to locate an old Microsoft Lifecam HD 3000 and thought I’d slip it in a USB port mainly out of curiosity - to my surprise it works! FaceTime video calls made and received without too much of an issue (2nd call to a remote device not in same network and the video received was having a bit of a fit for about 10 seconds but then came good with no issue afterwards).

Thinking now that considering a Microsoft branded webcam works I will be purchasing a Logitech HD Pro C920 or C930 as they are known to work and I expect no issues out of that - hopefully.

I am still confused over WiFi/Bluetooth/Airdrop requirements & functionality

In both Dons original video with title: “Guide: LattePanda Alpha Hackintosh Intel M3-7Y30” and the “Triple Boot - Win10, Linux, and MacOS on lattepanda” video … the Links sections of the two videos mention the NGFF WiFi BCM94352Z

In Dons video titled “LattePanda Alpha Hackintosh Updates” the Air Port Card BCM94360CS2 is Linked.

i would like to know which option you chose or is better and I am assuming at this point that the Air Port Card BCM94360CS2 and the Air Port Card to NGFF adapter would be the go as I would think you would then get WiFi, Bluetooth AND Airdrop working - in conjunction with this I would then be thinking about drilling a small hole in my Titan case to run the wiring for these into:

What do you all think?

Has anyone got WiFi, Bluetooth AND Airdrop working? If not - what DO you have working and via which card/option are you achieving this?

I don’t have money to throw away on stuff that won’t work so again - PLEASE PASS ON YOUR KNOWLEDGE COMMUNITY

wow this is great!!!